by Andrew Pacholyk MS L.Ac.
~ Peacefulmind.com
(excerpt from Andrew Pacholyk’s memoir, Barefoot: A Surfer’s View of the Universe)
The Hawaiian sunset had a reputation of being one of the best in the world. I would imagine every tourist beach town would want to hold that title. The guys made sure to join me at the water’s edge for a glimpse of one of the most awe-inspiring sunsets, Ala Moana could offer. Arching domes of red and orange seemed to pulsate upward as the sun set far in the distance. There were probably 40 surfers in front of us, sitting about 50 yards out in the water, straddling their boards, honoring nature’s twilight eventide.
The next morning, we boarded a little puddle jumper to the island of Maui.
We were met at the airport by Big Steena’s friend and caretaker, Kai. “Hop in gentleman.” He drove us in his jeep across the island’s valley-like topography as we marveled at the incredibly lush, green landscape that would be occasionally interrupted by the hardened black lava flows that scarred the island over the years. “It is how the island rebuilds herself. Nature is quite ingenious,” Kai smiled, almost proud that he could share such a feat. The jeep turned a corner as we barreled down a long stretch of road, with the ocean rolling in from our left.
“You’re in the land of the relentless sun, boys,” Big Steena exclaimed opening his arms out wide to great the sun. Lahaina was a beautiful, historic town situated between the ocean and the towering westerly mountains. Once Hawaii’s capital in the early nineteenth century, Lahaina was also a famous fishing village and old whaling port.
But the real attraction in Lahaina was not breathtaking sunsets or its precious town square, but its enormous banyan tree. This gorgeous triumph of nature, spanning almost two acres across, and towering more than sixty feet high was “the most auspicious and adulated tree, the world over,” Kai beamed. “The banyan tree symbolizes the fulfillment of wishes and enlightenment in Hinduism and Buddhism, respectively.”
Big Steena was smiling. I could tell he was so honored to have Kai in his life. They were on the same wave length. Two men of a certain age, who loved and respected nature and saw the world as a force of living energy. His admiration was palpable.
Kai pulled the jeep over by the side of the road. We walked the length of the park and reached the huge tree that spanned a quarter of a mile in circumference and possessed 16 trunks reaching down to the earth. These trunks then became a supportive pillar for the next generation of growth from its iron-like roots. We walked up and touched the massive tree limbs. Its bark felt more like a metal pipe. You could sense the weight of its life span hanging heavy in its limbs. JackO hugged one of the downturned roots, all the while Big Steena had two hands on its massive trunk, head bowed, saying a prayer.
Big Steena had a little house just to the West of town, a few yards from the ocean. The white clapboard structure seemed oddly similar to his little house in the Venice Canals. With a porch that spanned the length of the front of the house, its only color was from the weathered blue shutters on the front windows. Inside were four small bedrooms in the back with a kitchen and living room dividing the front. It was the perfect beach house.
I feel asleep right after sunset and woke up at about 6am with the smell of coffee tempting me to rise. There was a stream of syncopated tunes coming from the songbirds outside my window. I slept like a baby. I couldn’t remember when I had such uninterrupted sleep. It must have been the beach air. I walked out to the kitchen to find everyone already up and enjoying coffee in the big rocking chairs on the front porch.
“Golden boy, you have returned to this world,” Big Steena joked. “I’ll grab your coffee.” I had to thank him for the amazing experience he so generously provided. “Wait,” he said, “this is just the beginning.”
“Does surfing have its origins in Hawaii?” Bill asked Kai.
“The surfing we know in Hawaii today, is pretty much a gift from the Polynesians. My ancestors brought surfing to Hawaii and the Hawaiian people integrated surfing into their culture. At that time, surfing was only reserved for the privileged Royals and the upper class, along with chiefs and warriors. It was considered more of an art form than anything else. Surfing was a sacred act that honored the mysteries of the ocean and was done to appease the Gods.
The local kahuna or priest would first pray to the Gods for protection, abundance, and strength. “Heʻe nalu” or wave sliding was then performed to honor the Gods and compete for place or stature in front of the king.”
“So, surfing was a natural progression from the elite to every man?” I inquisitively asked.
“Not really,” Kai frowned. “The Western world infiltrated the islands, bringing disease and colonization. The suppression of the Hawaiian culture occurred through mixed breeding and religious conversion, desecrating the rich and wonderful traditions of the island’s people. The art of surfing a carved piece of tree in the middle of the ocean was almost lost as well. Considered a primitive act, it was pushed aside like many of the other rituals and beliefs of the Hawaiian heritage.”
“Tell them about your grandfather,” Big Steena chimed in.
“Well, in 1911, my great great grandfather was one of the original members of the surf club called “Hui Nalu,” meaning “Club of the Waves.” It was created to reintroduce surfing back into the minds and hearts of the Hawaiian people. It was pretty much just for the locals. About 10 years later, the haoles started their own, elitist surf and canoe club, that was basically for the rich white man only. But the seed was re-planted again in the hearts of man.
Thanks to our own Duke Kahanamoku and George Freeth, surfing reached worldwide recognition and brought back this art for all the world to enjoy!”
Bill and I were so grateful for the history lesson.
“It’s always good to know where our traditions come from. Especially the ones we embrace,” Big Steena smiled. “Grab your gear, we’re goin surfin’ JackO and Zip are going to the Breakwall Reefs. Golden boy, you’re with me.”
The sun breeched the horizon spilling liquid gold across the early morning canopy of palms. I was made aware of the symphony of paraquats hidden away in the banyan trees screeching their discord over who was to eat first.
I could hear the repetitive rolling of the waves just beyond the trees. The brisk breeze brought the relaxing sound to my ears telling me that the waves were going to be great this morning.
We stopped to wax our boards under a brooding mango tree. Big Steena bent down and picked up a large juicy mango. “Oh look,” he said, “breakfast!” He quickly whipped out a pocket knife and proceeded to separate the beautiful yellow-orange skin from its meat. He handed me the sweet golden fruit. “Chupa,” he said. “Chupa, chupa.”
I looked at him, half asleep.
He picked up another mango, peeled off the skin, and put one end into his mouth. He made a slurping noise as he pulled the dense meat off the pit with his teeth. “Awwww, chupa,” I said. I quickly followed suit enjoying every bit of the mango’s pulpy goodness.
We walked to a spot that Big Steena thought would be good for my skill set and there they were. An entire pod of wave worshippers perched off the coast on dawn patrol. You could hear the laughs and the ribbing going on between them as the air carried their howls to the shore. A couple heads turned to notice us. Probably wondering where we were going to park. Big Steena leaned into me and said, “come on, let’s wander.” Which meant, let’s go down the beach a little further to find our own waves.
I suddenly felt an uncomfortable feeling under my heel. I bent down and picked up a very small, smooth stone that had a little barnacle protruding from its face.
“Let me see that?” Big Steena gestured. I tossed him the stone as he carefully observed it. He rolled it over in his hand several times. “It’s a gratitude stone,” he said tossing it back to me. “Keep it in your pocket. When you reach in there to get some change, you will always remember to be grateful.”
“A gratitude stone?” I smiled. “I will remember that.”
“Whenever you touch the stone, tell the stone and essentially the Universe something you are grateful for. It’s a powerful and affective way to bring gratitude, humility, and positive thought into your life.”
On the South end of town was Kammies, one of Lahaina’s reef breaks. We paddled out to the soft shoulder. The waves were coming in at a strong, but even pace with the off shore reef adding to their size. It took me a couple of waves to get my bearings as I felt more and more comfortable with the right-handed waves that were pushing in. “Keep in that Magic Zone and you can’t go wrong,” Big Steena would remind me.
We surfed with a few of the locals who came over to greet Big Steena. “I knew these guys since they were little delinquents. Their parents turned them over to me as a path to rehabilitation after they got out of juvey,” Big Steena confided.
These guys were a little older than me. They cautiously looked me up and down to deduce if I was worthy of a nod. Even though we were surfing together, they kept that silent courtesy wall up between us, nodding occasionally when they seemed to approve of something I did.
“Me hoa says the harbor is really firing today,” I overheard one of the local guys telling Big Steena. He answered as if he understood.
“Well Golden Boy, Taavi says his friend thinks that the harbor has good waves today,” Big Steena translated for me, once he saw the confusion on my face. “Come on, let’s hit the harbor.”
He was right.